Thursday, October 13, 2022
What a perfect little layout I have here. Been inactive and deserted for almost 16 months, all it needed was a thorough vacuum cleaning, track cleaning with a Piko track rubber and attention to a sticky switch. All trains running smoothly, feeling chuffed.
Thursday, April 15, 2021
Where have all the guard’s vans gone?
By Wally Greig
Many South Africans will remember the wooden bodied guard’s van that used to herald the end of every goods train, in this country. Guard’s vans played another role, for they provided humble means of transport for the poorer members of the South African society; Most common, those
days were the V-8, a wooden van with four passenger compartments and the V-7 with two compartments. (Both representing classes 2 and 3 passenger compartments)
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| The only three cabooses \ guard's vans represented on my layout - from left to right: V-8, VL-9 and V-7. |
Sunday, May 03, 2020
HOT TIP:
A simple method to prevent spectacle lenses misting up on wearing a face mask.
((I use Liquid Dishwasher. 😎))
BACKGROUND:
Theatre staff who wear spectacles can find their spectacle lenses misting up on wearing a face mask. This effect can be a nuisance and even incapacitate the person. A simple method to prevent this annoying phenomenon is highlighted.
TECHNIQUE:
Immediately before wearing a face mask, wash the spectacles with soapy water and shake off the excess. Then, let the spectacles air dry or gently dry off the lenses with a soft tissue before putting them back on. Now the spectacle lenses should not mist up when the face mask is worn.
DISCUSSION:
The face mask directs much of the exhaled air upwards where it gets into contact with the spectacle lenses. The misting occurs from the warm water vapour content condensing on the cooler surface of the lens, and forming tiny droplets that scatter the light and reduce the ability of the lens to transmit contrast.
¹ The droplets form because of the inherent surface tension between the water molecules. Washing the spectacles with soapy water leaves behind a thin surfactant film that reduces this surface tension and causes the water molecules to spread out evenly into a transparent layer. This ‘surfactant effect’ is widely utilised to prevent misting of surfaces in many everyday situations.
REFERENCE:
¹ The misting characteristics of spectacle lenses. Margrain TH, Owen C. Ophthalmic Physiol Opt. 1996;16:108–14. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
Saturday, February 16, 2019
TODAYS TIP:
Avoid sharp edges on cable ties.
Installers who are normally accustomed to working with small cable ties may not be aware of the danger associated with use of longer, thicker cable ties. Using a side cutter to cut off the tie neatly at the head, or cinch-point, works well for a 4-inch cable tie; however, longer, thicker cable ties are made of sturdy material and, when cut in this manner, leave an extremely sharp edge. Just how sharp has surprised many who have had to make a trip to the emergency room for stitches.
There is a correct way and an incorrect way of dealing with this issue.
See my attached photo.
I make use of a Rolson Mini Wire Cutter, 94 mm, flush cutting pliers.
Sunday, November 18, 2018
I have refurbished this DHC 27" "Retro" Racing Bicycle from my childhood - it is 45 years old.
Good and ready for another 45 years... My 1973 model DHC Racing bike.
(A true Vintage bicycle - cleaned every little nook and cranny) 100% original.
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| Dismantled everything, degreased and freshly greased all bearings and surfaces with Rocol MTS1000 bearing grease. |
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| Newly wrapped Gel Handlebar Tape. |
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| Original Brooks leather seat. |
What a ride we had, me and the old girl.
Did a quick, approximately 8km (5 mile)
ride early this morning,
chilly on the bike at 5 AM...
Feels like I am sixteen again, LOL
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| I just love the geometry of this bicycle. Super comfortable, featherlight and fast... |
Grease used for this project
ROCOL MTS 1000
Features: MTS1000 Grease (AFS 1152) has a good temperature resistance from -20°C to +150°C.
Features: MTS1000 Grease (AFS 1152) has a good temperature resistance from -20°C to +150°C.
It is a non-melting grease, fortified with molybdenum disulphide, for excellent temperature and water resistance.
Molybdenum disulphide (MoS2) has an affinity to the metal surfaces leaving a tenacious high load carrying film with a low coefficient of friction.
This film provides an extremely durable layer reducing frictional heat and wear and extending component life and lubrication intervals.
Ideal for highly loaded, applications where shock loads and vibration can occur.
MTS1000 Grease (AFS 1152) offers excellent corrosion resistance to protect in humid, damp and even wet conditions.
MTS1000 Grease (AFS 1152) maintains its integrity in arduous conditions and continues to protect over extended lubrication intervals, reducing equipment failure, downtime and lubricant usage.
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A smooth silvery black textured high melting
point Grease, water resistant lithium base
grease, fortified with molybdenum
disulfide (moly) to reduce wear by
maintaining lubrication under conditions of high friction and shock loads. |
A hot tip for cyclists:
How to create an impromptu adapter for your presta valve by modifying the valve cap. This way you could pump it using your local filling station or any pump that pumps up Schrader valves.
The difference between a Presta Valve and a Schrader Valve:
The Schrader valve is the same valve that’s used on car tyres. So a bicycle tube with the Schrader valve can be pumped up at your local filling station if no hand pump or compressor is available.
The Presta valve is typically found in bicycle tubes on many road bikes and some mountain bikes. Since the stem on the presta is a lot narrower, it allows for manufacturers to make narrower wheels and tyres. They tend to hold air better than Schrader valves. If you don’t have a bicycle pump that accommodates Presta valves (most allow both nowadays), you could just screw on an adapter and inflate it using the pumps at the filling stations. All you have to do is unscrew the nut to make the presta ready to permit airflow.
NOW: If you don't have a Presta Schrader valve adapter, like in my case, you tend to make your own!
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| If you make a precision cut, you will be able to take a pressure reading as well. |
Monday, November 05, 2018
Full Steam Ahead - SAR model train manufacturers unite -
It is with great excitement that Bekkerail and Mini World Models have decided to join forces and further improve their respective services to the SAR model train market in South Africa and abroad.
Eric Bekker (Bekkerail) and Gordon Winson (Mini World Models) have united and will build a product range that maintains the high level of excellence that they both enjoy.
Core to the strategy will be to continue and grow the great relationships and partnerships they currently serve in the local market and then expansion to markets abroad will be driven by the digital strategy and its online e-commerce options and social media channels.
Manufacturing in this new venture will in the New Year (2019) be handled by Gordon Winson and his team, while Eric Bekker will move his expertise into an advisory role for the business.
The manufacturing facility will be located at Unit 11, George Business Park, Albert Street, George.
Eric and Gordon are super excited in what they can achieve together and hope to shine a bright light on how they continue to create products of the highest standard to the SAR model train world.
Best wishes,
Eric Bekker and Gordon Winson.
Tuesday, January 16, 2018
This whole business of DC (direct current) Model Train Controllers are rapidly disappearing, as it is already hard to find AC (alternating current) transformers in the market place, thanks to the new Switch Mode PSU (power supply units) taking over this age old market...
Wednesday, March 08, 2017
Most widely used Sn (Tin) to Pb (Lead) ratio Resin Core Flow Solder for electronics - Wire Diameter 0,5 mm to 1,25 mm.
I make use of the following two types:
Tin-Lead Wire - 60Sn/40Pb Alloy Composition, for soldering standard and SMD components.
60% Tin to 40% Lead ratio
Melting Range: 361 - 364°F, 183 - 190°C
Tin-Lead Wire - 63Sn/37Pb Alloy Composition, for soldering the PolySwitch re-settable fuses that might reach temperatures in excess of 90°C during an overload condition.
63% Tin to 37% Lead ratio
Melting Range: 392 - 464ºF, 200 - 240°C
Weller 1mm Wire Lead Free Solder, +217°C, +221°C Melting Point,
0.5% Copper, 96.5% Tin, 3% Silver alloy composition is probably the best.
Tuesday, January 17, 2017
Please note: I have rearranged the "LABELS TO ALL POSTS" section of this blog - much more user friendly now, ENJOY the new look... (on the right when you scroll down)
LABELS TO ALL POSTS (NB! Remember to click on "Older
Posts" when reaching the bottom of the page!)
Posts" when reaching the bottom of the page!)
• Scratch built (15)
• Rolling stock (6)
• Weathering (6)
• Kitbashed (5)
• Layout detail (5)
• Guides and standards (4)
• Electronic projects (2)
• Kit built (2)
• Lighting (2)
• Recycling (2)
• Acclaimed Modellers (1)
• Automatic Reverse Loop Control (1)
• Tools (1)
• Rolling stock (6)
• Weathering (6)
• Kitbashed (5)
• Layout detail (5)
• Guides and standards (4)
• Electronic projects (2)
• Kit built (2)
• Lighting (2)
• Recycling (2)
• Acclaimed Modellers (1)
• Automatic Reverse Loop Control (1)
• Tools (1)
Saturday, October 01, 2016
Nice scenery and structures are an important part of model railways. But sturdy bench work, good track work, good wiring, properly gauged equipment and properly weighted rolling stock are essential to trouble free train operation. I have seen many people short cut these essentials in order to get right into scenery, etc. and end up with endless frustration when trying to run trains over a period of time. Unless I forget to throw a turnout, I can't remember the last time I had a derailment. Luckily, if I am good at anything, it is bench work and track work. Great performance is no accident, it takes deliberate effort. But with the right focus, these efforts do result in greatly improved performance.
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| Another Point Hack |
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The very thin plastic strip must protrude the top
of the guide rail with at least 1,5 mm and extend
beyond the edges of the guide rail. The thin
plastic strip glued to the inside of the
guard or guide rail will prevent the
opposite wheel to ride the frog
which causes the derailment.
|
Saturday, May 21, 2016
My fellow HO and N scale modellers, please remember, there is NO need for perfection, any imperfection seen on the model you are modelling, for instance, a building, a culvert, a tree, anything, is NOT noticeable at a distance of a meter to two meters, especially if this model is displayed at the rear end of your Layout. There is no point in wasting so much precious time in order to take weeks and months to finish a simple model. The most time I spent on a specific model was 4 days, this was on the scratch built Spitfire Hangar. You will never be able to finish a layout if time is wasted on petty stuff. Lets face it, you need to finish the layout in order to feel accomplished and most of all to run your trains.
Unfortunately, the railway tracks have to be looped back with a small to medium size model train layout. Due to space constraints, it is just one of those things.
Cherish your hobby, you deserve it. Happy Modelling!!
Unfortunately, the railway tracks have to be looped back with a small to medium size model train layout. Due to space constraints, it is just one of those things.
Cherish your hobby, you deserve it. Happy Modelling!!
Saturday, April 23, 2016
LED-Resistor Calculator
Without any calculation, use a 1K resistor for 9-12 volts and 470 Ohms for 5-9 volts power supplies. If less current is used, the life of an LED can be extended even though there will be a slight reduction in the brightness. In indicators, it is not a problem.
LINK: LED-Resistor Calculator
Saturday, April 16, 2016
Google a lot, dream a lot, think a lot and plan a lot before you attempt to build your own Model Railway Layout. I initially decided during the planning phase, to build a small L shape 12' x 7' layout, you may call it a micro layout, due to the space constraints and due to the fact that it is much easier to complete a smaller project. I usually complete all of my projects - I don't believe in creating white elephants... this layout is now 100% complete with all the frills and excitement.
The end of a matter is better than its beginning, and patience is better than pride. (Ecclesiastes 7:8 - The Holy Bible - New International Version)
LINK: Ecclesiastes 7
Friday, February 12, 2016
Due to the fact that I am relatively new in the modelling business, although I did a tremendous amount of research before I started purchasing my rolling stock, material and accessories in order to build my very first layout, I still made 4 basic errors!
The cons:
1. My baseboard is mounted on top of four cabinets that hinder the access to the under baseboard wiring and point motors, at the very least, it is modular and can be dismantled into three separate sections, a definite plus point.
2. The curvature is a bit too small - I misinterpreted the info as per NMRA website, the larger SAR locomotives should not be able to negotiate the current curves, well those larger locomotives were never present in actual life on this branch line, as modelled here. Another plus point. (Fortunately, I don't own any large locomotives)
3. The backdrop scenery skyline is too low, complicating photography,
4. I should have airbrushed or spray painted the ties / sleepers before I laid the tracks. Had to hand paint it afterwards, but the work was fascinating and the results amazing.
The pros:
This layout was purposely built, mainly for developing and for testing the performance of my "Return Loop Toggle Switch" printed circuit board, "Point Motor Energiser" printed circuit board and also my "Smilodon" range of DC model Train Controllers.
It worked so well that I decided to keep it and added the scenery / landscape. As luck would have it, I modelled a specific area from the beginning and was able to finish it. The current rolling stock operates perfectly on this layout, trains run flawlessly through the automatic reverse loops. (My own technique mastered in 2012)
I am happy!
Saturday, January 30, 2016
I have recently noticed that some text and pictures are misaligned when I browsed this Blog on my new Smartphone - I am currently fixing those issues. All should be okay now, please report any page errors to me.
Kind Regards, Andy...
Friday, December 25, 2015
Part of my Hobby being featured in this Journal:
World Airnews, January 2016, Africa's Leading Aviation Journal.
My Diorama: "Unbroken" 1941 Supermarine Spitfire Mk Vb and Hangar in Scale 1:72.
~ Hangar Talk January 2016 - Written by: Tom Chalmers ~
THE BANE of my life is the literally hundreds of emails I receive each day – not the ones of a personal or business nature, of course – but the scores of other ones offering everything from funeral policies to ladies’ underwear, none of which is of any interest to me.
But one recent one which arrived on my computer overnight was of a picture (below) with an introductory sentence which made me sit up and take notice. It said simply: “Download this picture and see if you can identify this aircraft which is currently in Aliwal North.”
Now Aliwal North is a relatively small town in the Eastern Cape which spans the main road between Bloemfontein and East London. It has a small airport which does not suffer from over-use. But how did a Spitfire find its way there? Fascinated, I downloaded the file and the emerging image showed a wooden hangar protecting a WWII aircraft which was obviously a Spitfire. The caption to the picture gave more details – it was a 1941 Supermarine Spitfire Mk. Vb 1:72.
I had to wait to the following day to receive the answer to the “1:72” from the sender, one Andy Gillespie, a long time resident of the town.
The 1:72, it transpired, was actually the scale of the Spitfire metal die-cast model which had been given to Andy by his brother-in-law. Now Andy Gillespie is a modeller of considerable expertise and one of his specialties is model railway construction and operation. The problem was that, although the Spitfire was originally intended to go with one of his railway layouts, it was not the same scale – the railways are in HO scale. This disparity in scales was a “no-no” as far as Andy was concerned.
So Andy built the Spitfire model and made a wooden hangar to go with it on a separate diorama. Andy noticed that the postage date stamp on the package in which the model had been sent to him was May 20, 2015, coincidentally the anniversary of his late father’s birthday. His father had served with the SA Infantry in North Africa during WWII and at some point had found an unopened wooden crate lying in the desert. He opened it up and found a German motorcycle with sidecar inside.
Gillespie Senior assembled it and used it to go fishing. His method of fishing was to find an oasis, drop a hand-grenade into the water and collect the dead fish for supper for him and his colleagues that evening. He was eventually captured by the Germans and spent the rest of the war in a POW camp in Germany. Andy, who idolised his father both then and now, decided to make a model of the motorcycle/sidecar to go with a motor vehicle and Spitfire on the diorama.
But the story of the diorama and its connection with aircraft and WWII does not end there. Andy takes up the story: “I decided on a name for the diorama after I had finished it. I called it “Unbroken” after I had watched a true-to-life movie going by the same name,” he wrote.
"The movie was produced and directed by Angelina Jolie and was based on the 2010 nonfiction book by Laura Hillenbrand entitled: Unbroken: A World War II Story of Survival, Resilience and Redemption. The film revolves around the life of USA Olympian and athlete, Louis "Louie" Zamperini, portrayed by Jack O'Connell. Zamperini survived at sea in a life raft for 47 days after his bomber was shot down in the Pacific during WWII and his rescue by a Japanese warship. He was sent to a series of prisoner of war camps in Japan," wrote Andy.
Andy is a model railroader par excellence, as well as a self-taught electrical engineer whose pastime is building model railway transformers-cum-speed control systems. This, incidentally, is how I came to come in contact with him - he is currently building one for me. It is strange how some wartime memories and stories are revived. Tom Chalmers ➣
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| World Airnews, January 2016 - Cover Page |
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| Hangar Talk - Written by: Tom Chalmers |
Saturday, November 07, 2015
I am busy with the construction of another "Smilodon 3000 DTC™" - DC Dual Model Train Controller build 2 - This time making use of a black plastic enclosure. It is for a customer in Durban, KwaZulu-Natal "the garden province" of South Africa. (A custom Controller which is fully modular – very easy to service, to change the configuration and to replace any faulty module if needed).
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| Progress is made.....so far so good. |
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| The finished wiring inside. |
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| PolySwitch® SMD (resettable fuses) soldered in line. A polymeric positive temperature coefficient device (PPTC, commonly known as a resettable fuse,
or a polyfuse or a polyswitch) is a passive
electronic component used to protect against over current faults in electronic circuits. |
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| Powered and tested. |
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| Top and front view. |
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| Top and rear view. External voltage regulator IC heat sink. |
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| Top and rear view. External larger voltage regulator IC heat sink. |
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| Achieving much better heat dissipation with the larger heat sink. A temperature as low as 46.1°C is not bad for twin LM 317T voltage regulators working at a rate of 70%, and reaching this temperature after 12 minutes. It stabilised at this temperature at an ambient room temperature of 27°C. |
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| The finished product. (November 10, 2015) |
Feedback on Tuesday, November 10, 2015
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| An extract of an email received from the new owner of this brand new "Smilodon 3000 DTC™" - DC Dual Model Train Controller. I am posting this extract without Toms consent - I know for a fact he won't mind me posting this extract, he is sometimes unreachable via email due to his busy schedule as Managing Editor of his world renowned publications Company. Thank you very much Tom for your kind words, and no need to worry about cooling fans, the heat sink will do a proper job. :-) |
Feedback on Monday, January 25, 2016
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| An extract of another email received from the new owner of this brand new "Smilodon 3000 DTC™" - DC Dual Model Train Controller. I am posting this extract without Toms consent - I know for a fact he won't mind me posting this extract, he is sometimes unreachable via email due to his busy schedule as Managing Editor of his world renowned publications Company. Thank you very much Tom for your kind words, ENJOY!! |
Friday, September 11, 2015
The ideal Electrical Contact Cleaner to be used on any Model Railway Layout. Cleaning and Lubricating switches, Locomotive pickups, Model Railway tracks, Potentiometers, improving conductivity in electrical circuits, etc.
Sunday, July 19, 2015
This is an entertainment website. Please remember to revisit all pages and posts from time to time. I am currently busy sprucing up the scenery and landscape and shall be adding more images as progress is made. I may not add any new posts in the future, but will definitely add more images to existing posts and pages from time to time. Thank you for looking...
Sunday, June 28, 2015
One of five modified points on my layout, definitely the remedy for derailments.
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| The very thin plastic strip must protrude the top of the guide rail with at least 1,5 mm and extend beyond the edges of the guide rail. The thin plastic strip glued to the inside of the guard or guide rail will prevent the opposite wheel to ride the frog which causes the derailment. |
Friday, May 01, 2015
A Model Train Layout is not all about Trains. The Structures, the Scenic detail, the Figures, the Vehicles, the Lighting and everything else are of the utmost importance and should match to scale and to the era the Layout depicts.
* According to the National Model Railroad Association (NMRA) standard S-1.2, predominantly used in North America, in HO scale 3.5 mm (0.1378 in) represents 1 real foot (304.8 mm). This is a ratio of 1:87.0857142, which is usually rounded to 1:87.1.
Wednesday, March 25, 2015
This is how delicate models should be handled, with gloves... I have 3 pairs! No finger marks or any kind of acid deposits that may damage chrome and paintwork.
Thursday, March 19, 2015
Tips to Avoid Model Train Derailments:
Derailments are frequent and very annoying when you are trying to build a perfect railroad track. Here are a few tips to avoid them.
- The joints must be well aligned and the gap between them must be kept to a minimum. The track should be smooth when you rub a finger over it.
- Solder your sectional pieces in the end so that they remain fixed at one position.
- The track gauge should neither be tight nor wide. If the track gauge is too tight the wheels could ride up and cause a derailment. If it is too wide the wheel flanges won’t span the track correctly, potentially causing a derailment. Heating the rail with a soldering iron can allow for the rail to be adjusted into position.
- Make sure the switch points don’t grab the wheels. This sometimes happens with new switch points. A file can be used to carefully smooth the points (movable parts) to achieve a smooth transition. Inspect the rail gauge when in each position.
- The wheels must move freely and contact the rails evenly.
- Ensure couplers don’t snag and are properly centred.
- If you are making an S-shaped track, there must be a straight track equal to the length of the train between the curves.
- Add additional weight to cars if they are too light. Aim for a low centre of gravity with the weight inside and towards the centre of the cars.
- Lubricate frequently. If wheel sets are incorrectly aligned, out of gauge, or not rotating freely, they could cause a derailment. However, use oil sparingly as it does attract dust.
Miscellaneous Stuff
Meditations on Speaker Impedance ("OHMmmmmm")
One source of confusion we frequently run across is the concept of speaker impedance. This confusion is also a likely cause of many blown power amplifiers.
So, how do you tell what the impedance of a speaker is? On most cabinets, it should be printed on a label next to the jack. If the speaker is visible, it may be printed on the speaker label or stamped on the frame or magnet. To measure the true impedance of a speaker or cabinet requires a rather complex procedure involving signal generators, power amplifiers and high frequency AC voltmeters. However, with raw speakers and many cabinets, the ohmmeter function of a digital multimeter can help you identify what the impedance of the speaker should be. Generally, the reading given by an ohmmeter will be about 2/3 to 3/4 of the impedance of the speaker. So, a 4 ohm speaker will typically measure about 2.5 - 3 ohms, and an 8 ohm speaker will typically read about 5-6 ohms, while a 16 ohm speaker will measure around 12 ohms. TO PROLONG THE LIFE OF YOUR VERY EXPENSIVE SOUND SYSTEM: 1. UNPLUG from mains when not in use or during a lightning storm. 2. ALWAYS turn the volume control to as close to zero as possible before switching off or switching on at the power button. (You never start your motor car when it is cold, with the throttle fully depressed!)
Interesting Facts About LED Colours!
Different colours in LEDs are achieved by doping the base material with different combinations of chemical substances:
1. Infrared LED- Aluminium gallium arsenide
2.Red LED – Aluminium gallium arsenide, Gallium arsenide phosphide, Gallium phosphide
3. Green LED – Aluminium gallium phosphide, Gallium nitride
4. Yellow LED – Aluminium gallium phosphide, Gallium arsenide phosphide, Gallium phosphide
5. Orange LED – Aluminium gallium indium phosphide
6. Blue LED – Indium gallium nitride, Silicon carbide, Sapphire, Zinc selenide
7. White LED * – Gallium nitride based indium gallium nitride
8. Ultraviolet LED – Indium gallium nitride, Aluminium gallium nitride.
Note *
The "secret" behind the White LED:
There is no semiconductor material that emits pure white light. White light is a feeling created by the mixing of the primary colors – Red, Green and Blue. The white LED has an Indium gallium nitride blue chip coated with phosphor. This phosphor can emit white light when energized with blue or ultraviolet photons. The blue light emitting chip in the LED is coated with a converter material. When this converter material is activated by blue light, it emits yellow light. The mixture of blue and yellow light is perceived by the eye as white light. The light from the white LED has both peaks in the blue and the yellow region but the human eye will identify the peaks as white light. That is why, some white LEDs look more blue (cool white) and some more yellow (warm white). This is due to the difference in the peaks.
TIP:
Keep a 3 Volt Lithium Cell handy on the work bench for safely testing of LEDs. The LED leads make easy contact with the lithium cell terminals.
Miniature Twine Trees (youtube)
Batteries and Inverters (pdf)
Battery Stuff (tool)
Steps-you-can-take-to-live-off-the-grid. (website)
Building simple circuits (website)
Wiring for DCC (website)
How To Make Water on an HO Train Layout (youtube)
The City Edge Layout Model Railroad with amazing Miniature Cars in HO scale (youtube)
Visiting with Huell Howser: Fairplex Garden Railroad (youtube)
How to Make Easy Hills & Mountains for Model Train Layouts and Dioramas (youtube)
N scale train in a bar (youtube)
75 Model Railway projects (website)
Build Your Own Hot Wire Foam Cutter - Professional Tools for Modellers (youtube)
Convert millimetre to inch (tool)
Capacitor Discharge Units of Various Capacities for all sizes of Layout (website)
Model Buildings (website)
Bible Gateway (website)
Mini World Models (website)
Rod Stewart and model railroads (website)
Best Model Train & Railroad Websites (website)
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